Soulful food with Rockwell & Sons

Posted on November 27, 2012 by Eat Melbourne

Rockwell and Sons, Collingwood.
November 21, 2012

Rockwell and Sons brings an interesting juxtaposition to the Smith Street strip, with the food balancing between comforting American soul food and dishes that lean towards fine dining. On the first visit it’ll be hard to get past the alluring meats in buns (let’s all agree to retire “dude food”), but the rest of the menu is worth exploring, especially as it’s designed to share with the whole table.

Chef and owner Casey Wall, from North Virginia, by way of some top restaurants in New York (Spotted Pig included) and Cutler & Co, brings an experience and passion of American classics to Melbourne, and it delivers on all fronts. The room goes for the sparse industrial feel with concrete floors, plain wood and open ceilings, which fits perfectly into Collingwood and the homely food. The service is led by Manu Potoi, from Wellington and ex-Attica, and brings a casual polish to the experience. Drinks have a strong beer focus, including some great local brews like the Mountain Goat Triple Hightail, which suits the food, but does feature a short, well-selected list of wines as well (and spirits too).

The highlight for me is the Wednesday night fried chicken, which is not to discredit the rest of the menu (which I’ll cover another time), but this offers something unique to Melbourne dining. This week’s review in The Age’s Epicure details the lengthy 3-day process of delivering the perfect fried chicken, and perfection it is. This is the kind of fried chicken that you lie awake at night thinking about- crispy batter, that doesn’t ooze grease, which melts into tender, juicy meat. As well as offering a whole fried chicken, the $60 meal comes with all the Southern-style trimmings, which would feed three people easily, or four to five if you want to explore some of the other temptations on the menu as well.

Accompanying the chicken are the best biscuits (if you don’t know about biscuits, think lighter, fluffier scones and you’re almost there) you’ve ever eaten; soft and delicate inside with a flaky, buttery crust. Made with Myrtleford buttermilk (which I love, and is gracing menus Melbourne-wide) these biscuits are magnificent towers and beg to be torn into. The “mac and cheese” is rich and moreish without being overpowering, and the coleslaw is lively, with a light creaminess. On this occasion the other sides, which change week to week, were grilled asparagus with that sweet char, and pickled vegetables which brought the palate alive amongst the rich dishes.

We also had the “hush puppies” as well- crisp, yet fluffy, deep fried nuggets of cornmeal batter served with maple syrup butter. The hush puppies themselves did not blow me away, but with the maple syrup butter it had a captivating balance of salt and sugar.

After only being open a few months, Rockwell and Sons is hitting its stride, with fantastic word-of-mouth and great reviews, and it’s going to get busy- make sure you call up and book your Wednesday night fried chicken now.

Rockwell and Sons
288 Smith St, Collingwood, Victoria, 3066
http://www.rockwellandsons.com.au/

Baby Café and Pizzeria

Posted on October 31, 2012 by Eat Melbourne

Baby Café & Pizzeria, Richmond.
October 29, 2012

Baby is the new arrival from Chris Lucas, the man behind the ever popular Chin Chin in the CBD, and brings a new life to the site that was, until recently, Pearl. Baby aims to do for Italian food what Chin Chin did for Asian cuisine, create a fun, casual eatery which thrums with passionate energy. The formula still proves to be a winner with an element of familiarity between the two (neon, menu style, learning a new language in the toilet, eating around the open kitchen), but with enough individuality that they don’t come across as cloned twins.

Baby has its tongue firmly in cheek when it comes to its style and image, with lascivious lips, genitalia-like pink neon lights and a promo video that has spurred debate of sleazy vs sexy (see it here). If anyone takes offence then they’re missing the point. The design of the restaurant itself can only be described as modern rustic with pale wood, canvas on walls, and all manner of meat and cactus dangling around the kitchen; the bright neon adds bursts of colour. The kitchen is run by Executive Chef Domenic Pipicelli, who has previously worked at Becco and Mama Baba, aided by new Italian imports head chef Nicola Dusi and head pizza chef Daniele Colombo.

The service is friendly, informative (helping navigate the menu and Italian language) and enthusiastic, possibly a little too enthusiastic and attentive but I would take that any day over dreary and distant. The kitchen is quick, especially the pizzas, so there’s no going hungry here. The menu follows the traditional Italian style of antipasti, primi, secondi and dolci (desserts), but it’s more relaxed with ‘Salumi and Mozzarella’ and ‘Small Tastes’ leading into Pasta, Specialita (mains) with salads and side dishes, as well as a large selection of pizzas. There’s also the Banchetto set menu option, which if it’s anything like Chin Chin’s will be a generous adventure through the menu. The wine list showcases bottles from the different regions of Italy, with some local options dotted throughout, and fit with the reasonably priced menu.

We start with a selection of smaller dishes. Our ‘Accoppiati’ (selection of matched cheese and cured meat), was speck, asiago, zucchini with thyme, and grissini. A simple platter but one which shows off the quality of the produce being used. The rich speck with creamy and salty asiago cheese; the zucchini have that sweet chargrilled flavour but without becoming soggy. The ‘Arancini & Crocchette’ is a selection of three morsels: two risotto balls and one croquette. These are simple items but often hard to perfect; at Baby they were all delicious. One arancini and croquette were very cheesy (never a bad thing), with the second arancini having a bolognese filling. Our final antipasti was the ‘Peperoncino dolce e salsiccia’, which were a highlight for me. Gorgeously sweet chargilled peppers bursting with a sausage, rice and friarielli (rapini) filling, these were so good that I wish I hadn’t been sharing.

Next was the ‘Paccheri al porro’, large tubes of pasta, perfectly cooked, with mounds of sweet caramelised leek and reggiano cheese. They had me at caramelised leek with this dish, and it was a winner, though it did need a touch more salt (handily provided on the table, along with chili flakes if you want a kick). The ‘Polpette di carne’ was probably the best dish of the night for me (although the pizzas were very close), moist meatballs in a rich, but not overpowering, tomato sauce, served on a bed of soft cheesy polenta. While the meatballs were good, it was the polenta, so often done badly, that was hard to stop eating, going so far as to scrape the serving plate of every last mouthful.

It would have been wrong to not try the pizzas, so we went for the ‘Funghi’ and the “specialty” pan fried ‘Burrata’. The pizzas strike that harmonious balance of a crisp, almost-chargrilled crust with a pillowy chewiness inside. A pizza with mushrooms just begs for me to order it, and the ‘Funghi’ was one of the best I’ve tried (Ladro also delivers a fanastic version). An abundance of cheesy goodness with buffalo taleggio and fior di latte, sauteed wild mushrooms and thyme; it was nice to see a selection of real wild mushrooms not portobello (which doesn’t really class as a wild mushroom in my opinion). The ‘Burrata’ hails from Baby’s “specialty” pizzas, some pan fried and some grilled. This one was pan fried and had a crispier crust than the regular pizzas, but without being greasy like other pan pizzas. The burrata itself, a type of mozzarella which has much creamier interior, was like floating on a cloud of dairy bliss, creamy and slightly salty but with a lightness that’s perfect for spring and summer. The burrata worked perfectly with the sweet acidic cherry tomatoes, the bright herbaceous note of basil and a chef not afraid of using enough sea salt to really bring out the sweetness of the tomato.

It’s very rare that I feel too full to not even share a dessert, but on this occasion it was an insurmountable challenge. Yet I’m happy to know that there’s more virgin (fitting in with the pseudo-sexual theme) territory to explore on my next visit, along with trying to make a larger dent in the extensive menu (something it shares with Chin Chin, where you feel you’ll never try every dish).

Baby is certainly another winner like Chin Chin, bringing some energy back to Italian eateries. As well as bringing some additional vibrancy to Richmond, which has some classy places like Union Dining, but mostly just boring quick and easy options. Baby is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner, with the breakfast menu offering some modern Italian twists on classic dishes.

Baby Café & Pizzeria
631-633 Church St, Richmond, 3121
http://www.babypizza.com.au

Crabapple Kitchen, my new local favourite

Posted on October 29, 2012 by Eat Melbourne

Crabapple Kitchen, Hawthorn.
October 27, 2012

The Glenferrie Road strip in Hawthorn has always thrived with bakeries, fast food, and quick and easy eateries. However, apart from Tao Tao House serving some fantastic dim sum, I’ve found it lacking in offering a more polished experience. That is a thing of the past with the fairly recent arrival of Crabapple Kitchen, which has created an oasis of relaxation amidst the hustle of weekend families and weekday university students. It is led by New Zealand chef Greg Feck, who has an impressive history working with the likes of Jamie Oliver, Ben O’Donoghue, and Stephanie Alexander at Richmond Hill Café & Larder, but who more recently opened Sapore in St Kilda and the FoodandTravelCo cooking school with partner Kim Coronica.

The white picket fence on the pavement outside speaks volumes of the nostalgic comfort that Crabapple Kitchen embodies. You can order Campos coffee and takeaway treats through the front window, then the cafe opens onto a rustic-style kitchen and bar area, while the seated area flows through the long room to the working kitchen at the rear. The design is warm and inviting and recalls the charms of a country kitchen, with warm colours, wooden furniture and, on this visit, baby pumpkins dotted on tables (our pumpkin was called Ricardo).

So far I’ve only had chance to explore the breakfast menu but having read the lunch menu (begins at 11:30am), which features spiced duck meatballs, 12-hour Merino and slow-cooked pork, it won’t be long until I do. Of note is that they’re beginning to experiment with opening for dinner, starting Friday November 2.

Despite having no booking and going the busy Sunday morning after a rave review in the Herald Sun, we were seated at the bar area for a coffee and to peruse the menu while we had a short wait for a table. The service is casual and friendly, exactly what you want from your local eatery, but without lacking an attention to detail. Campos coffee is served, a brand that I don’t see often in Melbourne, but which I have frequently in Sydney when visiting my head office; as well as T2 tea and a range of fresh juices and smoothies.

The menu takes two approaches, one part is Greg’s interpretations of classic breakfast menu items, with the second featuring more unique global choices from their travels around the world. Each dish highlights great produce and local producers with Myrtleford butter/milk, Meredith Dairy feta and various high-quality meats appearing across the menu.

The Myrtleford buttermilk pancakes is set to be one of their signature dishes. The crunch of salted peanut praline offers a counterpart to the soft milky pancakes, littered with chunks of banana, and the creamy tang of whipped mascarpone balances with the sweet maple syrup.

Their take on ‘baked beans’ is a generous serve of cannellini beans, slow-cooked in tomato, garlic and herbs; so rich and warm that it’s hard not to smile when eating it. The melted taleggio and an, optional, poached egg ooze through the beans and makes the accompanying crunchy herb bruschetta perfect for dipping.

On the more adventurous global side, the Northern Indian-style eggs, inspired by Jalandhar City, is similarly comforting with a warming lentil and carrot curry that never overpowers with its subtle and aromatic use of spices. Two poached eggs beg to be burst open and let their golden yolks mingle into the curry, with a spiced yoghurt offering a, not entirely necessary, dash of acidity. The grilled wholemeal flatbread has a lovely charred flavour that adds to the dish when mopping the bowl of every drop. This was easily my favourite dish.

I’m not one for having seafood at breakfast time, but with someone else at the table ordering it, I was able to try the Swedish inspired smoked ocean trout. The trout was gorgeously tender, served on grilled bread (gluten-free sourdough on this occasion) with delicately arranged shallots, cornichons, caperberries, horseradish creme fraiche and seaweed caviar on top. While not my personal choice, this dish showed the artistic hand behind the food, with beautiful plating that you don’t often find at breakfast.

Crabapple Kitchen has deservedly become my new favourite local restaurant/cafe, and that’s without trying the well-received lunch menu. Even if you don’t have the good fortune of living around the corner, this is definitely worth travelling for, and being able to book online (see their website) is an additional blessing.

Crabapple Kitchen
659 Glenferrie Rd, Hawthorn, 3122
http://www.crabapplekitchen.com.au

The Sharing House and West Winds Gin

Posted on October 26, 2012 by Eat Melbourne

The Sharing House, South Wharf.
October 24, 2012

The Sharing House held an event, in collaboration with West Winds Gin, to celebrate head chef Mark Briggs’ Young Chef of the Year win at The Age 2013 awards. I was lucky enough to win tickets to the event and I’m so glad I did, as this was the best introduction possible to The Sharing House.

The Sharing House opened earlier in the year on South Wharf, near the Hilton and DFO, overlooking the Yarra. South Wharf isn’t an area of Melbourne that I get to very much and it’s still finding its feet, but the allure of warmer weather will bring people out of hibernation to lounge outside on the promenade with a cold drink and great food.

The restaurant channels a casual industrial vibe, with high exposed ceilings and perfectly fits the style of the restored cargo sheds where the restaurant is situated. A simple white colour scheme is brought to life by bright primary colours, with lego-style decoration around the bar and kitchen. Huge open windows are designed for warm nights and being able to make the most of being beside the river.

The evening was a riot, a beautiful combination of perfectly executed and balanced food, a short hop around Europe with the matched wines and a blast of energy from West Winds Gin. West Winds Gin produce two award-winning gins in Australia using water from Margaret River. Sabre is a more traditional British-style gin with that classic citrus note and the addition of wattle seed to add a smoothness. Cutlass is a contemporary gin with bush tomato and more coriander seed to make a more savoury, aromatic spirit. The Cutlass was definitely my favourite, which was lucky as each table was given a bottle with a variety of mixers (tomato, capsicum, snow pea and celery) to make our unique twists on the classic G&T. Not only was the gin amazing but the two guys from West Winds Gin brought such passion and enthusiasm that added so much to the whole evening.

We were given a vibrant citrus-based gin cocktail on arrival and a chance to explore the surroundings while enjoying canapes (crab and avocado cones, carrot marshmellow, cheese croquettes- which were amazing!). The first course was Chatham Island blue cod, cured in West Winds gin, served with textures of melon. The blue cod had a lovely texture, not completely melt-in-your-mouth like many fish, but it had substance and depth to it which added so much to the dish.

This was followed by a terrine of partridge, which had a balance of smoother textured meat with generous pieces of partridge to deliver a play on textures. The merlot vinegar was reduced to a a glorious stickiness with an acidity that married with the rich terrine.

The main event was a slow-cooked wagyu short rib, flaking with a gentle nudge of the knife and with a rich buttery flavour, complimented by the earthy truffle jus, and the braised celery adding that clean note through the dish.

A gin and tonic sorbet (as if it could have been anything else!) led into the dessert, a Violet and Honeycomb crumble. A rope of rich dark chocolate ganache, chunks of crispy honeycomb, with a subtle vanilla cream and studded with various textures of chocolate. It was a dish that would please those die-hard chocoholics, but also with a lightness of touch that didn’t overpower the meal.

It was a great night out, and the generosity of The Sharing House and West Winds Gin was fantastic. Mark Briggs makes the most of each ingredient and executes the dishes perfectly. There may have been a bit of a sore head in the morning, but it was more than worth it to find out that tomato does indeed go well with a Gin and Tonic!

The Sharing House
35 South Wharf Promenade, South Wharf, Melbourne
http://www.thesharinghouse.com.au/

West Winds Gin
http://thewestwindsgin.com/home/

Birthday week

Posted on October 22, 2012 by Eat Melbourne

So I’ve just finished celebrating a milestone birthday with a week of celebrations with my family of friends. It’s left me rather drained but brimming with the generosity of the people in my life.

It began with a weekend away with my partner at the Lake House in Daylesford. Having grown up in the Yorkshire Dales I always love to enjoy some peace and quiet away from the city. The waterfront suites have an amazing view of the lake and all manor of waterfowl, which is complimented by the warmth of the staff and the fantastic food. Our two night package included the degustation (with matched wines) on the first night and a three course a la carte dinner on the second night. One thing they do very well at the Lake House is to make every guest feel uniquely special, a credit to their fine staff. Two standout dishes to me were the roast pork and morcilla, and the chicken and mushrooms; both were a celebration of the produce, showing that you don’t need to complicate dishes when the ingredients are this good.

After another wonderful breakfast at the Lake House on Sunday morning, we had a leisurely drive back to Melbourne. That night was a birthday dinner with friends at Chin Chin, the perfect venue for a rather rowdy table. I’ve been to Chin Chin several times and always leave impressed (and staggeringly full!), but this time they blew me away. The generosity of the food was overwhelming with dish after dish of perfectly balanced food. The green papaya and ‘Crying Tiger’ salads treaded the tightrope of sweet, sour, salty and heat with precision; the beef short rib was meltingly tender and the best dish of the night; and the coconut sago wiped out any repressed memories of bland sago paste from my childhood. Our waiter for the night should be commended for remaining friendly and insightful amidst the frantic action of the dining room.

Monday, my birthday itself, was a chance to drop it down a gear, with a lovely brunch at Crabapple Kitchen in Hawthorn. A newcomer to my local neighbourhood strip, and a welcome one at that. The Indian-style eggs, floating in a subtly spiced lentil curry became even better with each spoonful, and the Myrtleford buttermilk pancakes with salted peanut praline and mascarpone were sinfully delicious. I’m looking forward to exploring the rest of the breakfast and lunch menu at my new favourite local.

Wednesday brought around the opening night (to the public at least) of Brooks. I won’t go on about Brooks, as I’ve written about the evening in detail here, but it was wonderful to see Nic Poelaert’s new adventures after Embrasse. The food, service, wine and company were fantastic.

Bringing the week to a close was an opportunity to welcome old and new friends alike into our home and make them feel welcome. It started off with an early (for a Saturday) visit to Prahran market, for an abundance of antipasti. As nice as it is to cook and share that with those close to you, after a certain number of guests, there’s a definite need to keep it simple. Cheddars, brie, chèvre, feta and ‘roaring forties’ blue, ribbons of prosciutto, mounds of salami, various bowls of marinated and preserved produce, along with a never-ending supply of bread (with the outstanding Myrtleford butter) were scattered throughout the house and garden.

The highlight to the evening was the cake from Burch and Purchese, my go-to for celebration cakes (to be honest, it’s my go-to whenever cake is needed!). This time we went for a large version of their Chocolate, Salted Caramel and Mandarin, with a second smaller cake, the Chocolate and Explosive Raspberry cake (just so we didn’t run out). They decorated both cakes so that they visually worked together, and it provided a centrepiece with ‘wow’ factor. There’s nothing better after a few drinks than a wickedly decadent slice of cake.

So that’s it for another year and another decade, and now it’s time to recover!

Brooks of Melbourne

Posted on October 19, 2012 by Eat Melbourne

Brooks, Melbourne CBD
October 17, 2012

Brooks is the new restaurant and bar from Gerald’s Bar owners Gerald Diffey and Mario Di Ienno, in collaboration with chef Nic Poelaert. Nic has been serving Modern French dishes at his Carlton restaurant Embrasse for the past three years, but with Embrasse closing its doors last weekend, Nic and the kitchen team have moved to new adventures at Brooks.

The design brings a lightness to the subterranean dining space, while the bar area (and private dining room) goes for warm and inviting darker tones. A smaller dining room gazes into the open kitchen, with a larger space off to the side. The service is efficient without being intrusive and the first dishes arrive quickly, with the perfect pacing continuing throughout the meal. The wine list, by former Circa sommelier Matt Brooke, provides a strong range of Australian, and international, wines by the glass and bottle.

The menu is split into two sections: the first offers dishes that will likely feature on the menu all year round and takes more of a share approach with various ‘platters’ and dishes for two; the second are entrée-sized seasonal dishes served à la carte or a five-course chef’s selection. There are some nostalgic call-backs to Embrasse with the ‘meli melo’ and ‘Forest Floor’ both appearing. Nic’s food always celebrates seasonality, with a simplicity that lets the quality of the produce speak for itself, and the dishes at Brooks are no different. We decide to explore the sharing area of the menu, leaving the seasonal degustation until our next visit, although we do sample the two desserts from the seasonal offerings.

A luxurious parfait ensconced in a delicate shell of rye bread, with a glistening pearl of blackcurrant jam on top, beg to be savoured with a glass of wine (on this occasion a Pinot Noir from Central Otago). It’s not hard to see that they’re going to become a firm fixture on the menu, the perfect bar snack to accompany an after-work drink. We also choose the charcuterie selection with paper-thin ribbons of glorious Warialda bresaola, a delicately spiced chorizo, and hearty slices of saucisson.

Moving to heartier fare we decide to share the roasted Glenloth chicken for two, with another Embrasse favourite on the side, the aligot now going by the more descriptive ‘cheesy mash’. The oven-roasted chicken breasts are executed perfectly, being moist and tender, with well-seasoned crispy skin. Oddly the confit chicken legs weren’t as luscious as the breast, although the meat did still fall away from the bone. Seasonal zucchini, or should that be courgette, and green beans are served tender but still retain that al dente bite and vibrant green of spring. The cheesy mash is as much of a highlight here as it was at Embrasse, and still requires skill to coax the oozing, stretchy mash onto the plate. Served with jus gras and mustard on the side, this was an elegant take on the roast, wonderful on a chilly Melbourne spring day.

If the whole menu can be considered concise, then the dessert selection is very to-the-point, with just two options. However, between two people, two options worked perfectly as there was no indecision about ordering both. The take on lemon meringue offers a light and vibrant end to the meal, but does lack a little ‘wow’ factor. However the ‘Forest Floor’ continues to impress, a mushroom made of a crunchy meringue stalk and a decadent chocolate and hazelnut parfait cap, and the granita lending a bitter herbaceous note that offsets the rich chocolate elements.

Brooks is definitely going to be one of those CBD hotspots, offering casual fine dining with perfectly executed crowd favourites and seasonal dishes that sing with Nic Poelaert’s elegant simplicity.

Brooks
115-117 Collins st (basement), Melbourne.
http://brooksofmelbourne.com/

Weekend in Sydney: Billy Kwong

Posted on September 27, 2012 by Eat Melbourne

September 14, 2012 Billy Kwong, Surry Hills, Sydney.

I have to admit that one of my favourite places to eat in Sydney is Kylie Kwong’s Surry Hills restaurant, Billy Kwong.

It’s a small room, tables are quite tightly packed in (no wild gesticulations here), and most of the diners sit on stools. After that description you might feel turned off, but at Billy Kwong the hustle of the dining room actually makes the whole experience better. Like you’re tucked away in a neighbourhood eating house in the backstreets of Shanghai or Hong Kong. Except this is in the middle of Surry Hills, and the room is decorated with stylish lacquered wooden walls (actually cupboards).

The place is always busy when I go, but it’s one of those places where you pop your name on the waiting list, go have a few drinks down the road, and your table will be ready before you know it. The turnover here is quick; you’ll be full before you know it and on to your next destination. The staff are always friendly, welcoming, and efficient. Top of the list, is that the food is fresh and tasty, and designed to share.

Over the past few visits I’ve noticed that the food has begun to include more native Australian ingredients such as saltbush leaves, warrigal greens and quandong. These native foods bring new life to Kylie’s dishes, which sing of her Chinese-Australian heritage. The stir-fried Old Man Salt Bush Leaves with Young Ginger were simple, yet delicious and moreish (especially as a counterpart to the richness of the pork belly main).

(I should say that the photos below, in no way to justice to the food. That’s the downside of a softly lit dining room, and I’m not one to whip out a camera and flash to disrupt everyone’s meal.)

Crispy Organic Salt Bush & Tatsoi Cakes with Homemade Chilli Sauce

A perfect change from the ordinary spring rolls that you often find littering menus. These were crispy and light, with the slightly nutty tatsoi leaves wrapped up inside. On the side was a wonderful housemade chilli sauce, which had a subtle heat to it, but a well-developed, almost slightly fermented flavour coming through. After noticing how fast the chilli sauce disappeared, our waiter kept us well supplied all night.

Wok-Fried Rice Noodle Rolls with Braised Biodynamic Beef & Black Beans

These were possibly my favourite dish of the night (and my last visit also). Normally you see rice noodle rolls steamed, with that gelatinous texture that you love or hate, but here they’re fried to give a crisp texture on the outside, that melts into the comforting softness of slow-braised brisket inside. The spring onions and micro-herbs give an element of sweetness and freshness to cut through the beef. Despite being so full at the end of the meal, I was so close to ordering another serve.

Sung Choi Bao of Certified Free-Range Pork, Ginger & Mushrooms

Sung choi bao is one of those classic dishes that can never go out of style, because they’re far too enjoyable. A brimming bowl of pork, ginger and mushrooms, accompanied with a stack of lettuce leaves and a selection of herbs like mint and coriander. It’s DIY style, which is far better than them coming out with the lettuce wilting under the heat of the filling, and it’s best to embrace the reality that there’s no way to eat them without getting messy. There’s something so perfect about that crisp, refreshing lettuce (this is what iceberg lettuce does best) that yields to the juicy, dripping, gingery pork inside, with a zap of herbaceous freshness.

Red-Braised, Caramelised Black Berkshire Pork Belly with Malfroy’s Organic Yellow Box Honeycomb, Organic Fish Sauce, Organic Meyer Lemon & Sichuan Pepper

The biggest shame is that the photo of this dish does absolutely nothing to convey how great this was.
The pork belly was crispy and caramelised on the outside, yet moist on the inside, that great balance between rendering the fat out but retaining enough to give it an amazing flavour. Served with a scoop of gorgeous honeycomb on top to stir through the pork, and lemon to squeeze on for acidity, this was essentially an elevated sweet and sour pork. To balance it out, we had Old Man Salt Bush Leaves with Young Ginger on the side, the beautiful tender leaves with generous slices of zingy ginger.

Billy Kwong
355 Crown Street, Surry Hills, NSW 2010
http://www.kyliekwong.org/BillyKwongs.aspx

Weekend in Sydney: 4fourteen

Posted on September 18, 2012 by Eat Melbourne

September 14, 2012

4fourteen, Surry Hills

I often travel to the major centres for work, and when I do, I “tack on” a weekend for myself to explore, enjoy and dine out. This time I was in Sydney, with some time to kill while waiting for the hotel room. With 4fourteen just around the corner, it seemed like a perfect opportunity for a casual Friday lunch. A few beers and some great food seemed like a great way to kick off the weekend.

4fourteen opened in Surry Hills earlier this year, a more casual and laidback alternative to chef Colin Fassnidge’s Four in Hand. Living by the same nose-to-nail, meat-centric philosophy as Four in Hand, 4fourteen, however, is stripped-back, with its raw warehouse dining room and food designed to share. The menu starts off with individual serves of nibbles and rolls, leading into small, large and larger plates for sharing; as well as ‘salads and starches’ to accompany and ‘pastry’ to end.

Put simply, this is traditional food (with the occasional twist), done perfectly, served with a playful family-style approach and friendly, warm service. I know if I lived in Sydney this would become one of those favourite neighbourhood eateries to visit with friends and share a great meal and good times.

(On a slight tangent, when did the word ‘traditional’ become a euphemism for old-fashioned, bordering on boring? To me, traditional is the food of family, soul and love; it’s the kind of food that you turn to when you need comfort and that brings back memories. Traditional to me is never going to be boring or old-fashioned, it’s who we are and where we came from.)

Chicken Wing, Parfait, Crispy Tortilla and Apple Chutney.

A moreish treat of a deboned chicken wing, sitting atop rich, smooth chicken liver parfait. Apple chutney cuts through the richness of the dish, and a crispy tortilla adds that element of crunch and texture. This is one of the best snacks I’ve had for a long time, I could have eaten a plate of them with a few ales.

Beef Brisket, Smoked Mayonnaise Roll.

What eatery worth their salt doesn’t have some kind of dude food roll/slider/bun these days. The menu features five different options from crab to pork belly, we went for beef brisket, knowing we’d be having pork as a main dish. The bun was soft and fresh, and the meat was tender and delicious, yet the smoked mayonnaise didn’t come through as strong as I thought it might have, and I did wonder if a more flavour-packed relish/chutney or chili-laced mayonnaise might have set off the rich brisket better. The roll was tasty and welcoming, but just needed a small tweak.

Roast Pork with Apple and Pickled Cabbage (served with Colcannon, see below).

On the ‘larger plates’ area of the menu, this dish was filled with generosity (especially as it came with its own side of colcannon), and was served ‘family-style’ in a blue cast iron casserole dish. Slices of juicy, perfectly seasoned, well-flavoured roast pork, with fantastic crunchy crackling, served with a whole baked apple and cabbage that still had a lovely bite to it. This was a wonderful, homely dish, designed to share and bring back memories of family Sunday roasts.

Colcannon.

A traditional Irish side dish, a creamy mashed potato with parsley (amongst other ingredients) cutting through the richness. I love when you have something so simple, yet so delicious, and it reminds you never to write off something as simple as the potato!

Orange and Ginger Carrots, Cumin and Yoghurt.

Roasted carrots are one of those treats that you don’t come across as often as you should, the sweet flavour and that soft, almost chewy texture. I think the ginger and cumin could have had a bit more of a kick, but the yoghurt and mint played off the sweetness of the carrots perfectly.

Bounty.

A play on the Bounty chocolate bar, deconstructed with a gorgeously silky chocolate mousse, shavings of toasted coconut, bites of ice-cream dusted in cocoa and the crunchy texture of a Brandy snap style tuile. It’s one of those desserts designed for you to go hunting through, finding treats hidden under a jungle of shavings and a shower of cocoa.

White Chocolate Sandwich, Dulce de Leche.

While the Bounty was an abundance of flavours, textures and contrasts, this dessert is about simplicity. A decadent white chocolate ice-cream smothered in that heavenly cousin of salted caramel, Dulce de Leche, finished with layers of the same Brandy snap tuile as the Bounty. This was a wickedly sinful dessert, showing that simplicity can wow; 3 components done well.

4fourteen

72a Fitzroy St, Surry Hills, NSW 2010
http://www.4fourteen.com.au/

Burch and Purchese: ‘Sweet Studio Sessions’

Posted on September 10, 2012 by Eat Melbourne

August 23, 2012

Burch and Purchese Sweet Studio, Chapel St.

I would never identify myself as a ‘sweet tooth’ or a ‘chocoholic’ if asked, usually because the sweeter side of the menu has tended to lack variety and texture at many places. The generic ice-cream sundae, banana fritter, chocolate brownie etc, has me asking for the bill and heading for the door. Of course, good restaurants and top-end bakeries have long been turning that tide.

Darren Purchese’s Sweet Studio in South Yarra has been serving up inventive and playful cakes (and cake tubes) for a while now. They’re my ‘go to’ for birthday, or other special occasion, cakes.
Now they’re beginning to experiment with ‘plating up’ desserts at their Sweet Studio Sessions inside the Chapel St store with a series of three evenings. 4 dessert courses, matching wines, amuse, coffee and petit fours.

On a chilly Melbourne night the warm and friendly welcome was the perfect foil to the icy wind outside. Being the first group to book we found ourselves at our own table under the Inspiration Wall (hundreds of jars filled with all kinds of sweet and savoury ingredients) and with a perfect view of the kitchen.

First up, was the amuse. A ‘nitro’ gin and tonic, arriving at the table with nitrogen vapours whisping around (which a camera could never do justice to). The gin and tonic flavour came through, balanced by a green tea sorbet and the crispy shell adding a delicate texture.

The first full course was Rose, Apple and Beetroot Crumble. This was my favourite dish of the evening, a great balance of taste and texture: crumb, beetroot sponge, rose cream and jelly, crystallised rose petal. The sweetness was kept in check by the acidity coming from the pickled apple, fizzy apple sorbet and yoghurt elements. I can’t wait for the cake version to show up in the retail cabinet.

Followed by the Passionfruit Cloud, a play on the crisp yet chewy meringue clouds available at the shop. This was a celebration of passionfruit, is tangy acidic nature explored through technique and texture. Crispy passionfruit shell, creamy mousse-like centre, with ‘caviar’ and jelly beneath.

Next was the most creative dish of the night: Avocado, Pear, Cucumber, Eucalypt and White Chocolate. The Eucalypt was used with a light touch and never overpowered the other flavours, working well with the pear. A highlight was the lime jelly, and hint of lime in the white chocolate mousse which brought the dish to life. While not that common in many Western countries, the avocado works well as a sweet ingredient.

The final course was a classic for those who have ever visited Burch and Purchese before. Usually served as a glossy cake, this was a deconstructed Chocolate, Mandarin and Salted Caramel. It’s been called the Year of Salted Caramel, and it’s easy to see why. While the other dishes walked a tightrope of sweetness, this final plate was luxurious and decadent. The centerpiece was a sphere of delicate dark chocolate which broke open to reveal a rich chocolate and mandarin ganache and salted caramel. For me the component that made the whole dish come alive was the fantastic mandarin sorbet, its clarity brought the palate alive. The caramelised cocoa nibs added their wonderful crunch and cocoa hit.

Ending the night, with tea or coffee, was a selection of petit fours. A miniature bar of their caramelised white chocolate, mint white chocolate aero, ginger and chocolate tart (perfect!) and a chocolate cream nibble.

Overall, it was a decadent night of playful desserts showing off the techniques that the chefs out into each component. The experience was made even better by the warm generosity of the staff, including the chefs who were happy to answer questions about the dishes and preparation. Keeping with the trend of breaking down the barriers between the kitchen and the guest, the atmosphere made the experience even better.

Burch and Purchese Sweet Studio

647 Chapel Street, South Yarra
http://www.burchandpurchese.com/

The journey so far

Posted on September 5, 2012 by Eat Melbourne

So what better way to begin than to look back to where we’ve come from. In this case, a recap at some dishes over the past year that have made it so memorable.

The two restaurants that stood out to me the most were Attica and Momofuku Seiōbo (in Sydney I know, but great food is great food, no matter where it’s located). Both of these serve dishes taking inspiration from Australia’s native ingredients, and pushing the boundaries of creativity with flavour combinations and the dining experience. Ben Shewry’s food has never been better, and Attica is rightly at the forefront of the Melbourne dining scene.

Momofuku itself has brought a mini-revolution to the dining scene, breaking free from the usual expectations of fine dining with chefs serving the food, seats right at the kitchen, and David Chang’s own musical tastes pumping into the room (and yes the booking experience!). The overall experience cannot be expressed in words, it’s a breath of fresh air. Shooting straight to 3 hats in the Sydney Good Food Guide, and winning Best New Restaurant,

In Melbourne, Vue de Monde’s new home on the 55th floor of the Rialto building has also given new life into Shannon Bennett’s restaurant. The view is breathtaking, especially when the sun sets, and an element of whimsy and theatre ensures the evening is more than just the delicious food. From the walk through the wine cellar when you arrive, the table settings and furnishings, to the playful reinterpretations of classics cooked in the open kitchen.

The past year (or so) can be marked by the abundance of two things: Salted Caramel and Mexican food. Neither of which is a bad thing in my book.

Darren Purchese of Burch and Purchese not only uses salted caramel in a wickedly decadent dark chocolate and mandarin cake, but you can also satisfy those cravings by buying it by the jar. Watch this space for a blog on their Sweet Studio Sessions coming soon.

The mexican food of days gone by has been replaced by fresh, clean flavours, usually served after a wait! Mamasita was one of the leaders in the craze of “no bookings” restaurants, difficult for customers but a necessary evil for restaurateurs. The other no bookings hit being Chin Chin, serving up modern, pan-Asian.

So here are some of the dishes and restaurants that have made the past year for me. This is by no means a complete list, but we don’t want too many spoilers for what’s to come.

Attica

The amuse perfectly sums up Attica. The walnut puree served playfully in the walnut shell, opened at the table, and a foraged cabbage flower on top.