Sydney’s rockstar: Momofuku Seiōbo

Momofuku Seiōbo, Pyrmont, Sydney.
September 15, 2012

Momofuku Seiōbo is everything I love about modern fine dining. It cuts out of the fuss, doesn’t take itself too seriously, delivers something different than every other restaurant and, of course, has amazing food. Yes the system to get a reservation is like trying to get tickets to the most popular gig in town and they’ve only decided to release 30 tickets, but it’s best not to let it ruin the experience. Basically Momofuku is the rockstar of Sydney dining.

The space is dark, sleek and sexy with a few tables dotted on the main floor, a handful of seats at the bar (you can often grab seats here without a reservation and enjoy the bar menu), but the grand event are the stools around the kitchen. Open kitchens have been around for a while, but this is an evolution of the chef’s table; eating whilst you gaze at the theatre of a working kitchen (Chin Chin, Baby and 4Fourteen, amongst others, have similar kitchen seating). There’s no awkward lulls in conversation, or checking your phone when a dining partner goes to the bathroom, when you can watch the chefs flow around the kitchen, prepping and cooking, and swooping in to help each other plate up. There’s also the added enjoyment of trying to predict which dish is next, the plates down the line with curls of sashimi or the small deep bowls right in front of you being dotted with crab and sprinkled with crumbs.

The service also takes a novel turn with the chefs presenting and explaining all of the dishes, mostly with enthusiasm. The wait staff themselves can focus on delivering outstanding service and attention to detail; you never need to wait or ask for anything and often notice that your glass is miraculously full again. The menu is set, numerous courses for dinner and an abridged version for lunch, with wine (including sake) matches or a short but varied wine list; for those wanting to veer away from alcohol there’s a unique juice matching option. The pacing of the meal is timed to perfection, just enough time to get lost in the view before the next dish is presented.

The food at David Chang’s first restaurant outside New York City (his Toronto outfit has recently opened) has dashes of Asian influence but mostly focuses on seasonal Australian produce and ‘global’ cuisine. The kitchen is led by Benjamin Greeno, who has worked with Sat Bains in the UK and the New York Momofuku restaurants, before heading to Sydney to open Seiōbo.  The dishes are inventive and fresh, making the most of the produce and pushing boundaries with sweet-savoury combinations, seen best in the petit four of pork fat caramel doughnut. Most exciting to me is the simplicity of the dishes and that razor-sharp focus of delivering perfection on each element, while balancing delicate and strong flavours and textures on the same plate.

My lunch visit began with nori, blood and chicharone snacks; a punch to begin the meal with the rich metallic, yet almost fruity, pig’s blood. The first course is elegant, although not the most memorable dish, with curls of delicate striped trumpeter playing off the crunch of celery and the heady notes of mustard essence.  Next is the signature Momofuku pork bun; it is as good as they say, the only disappointment being that you only get one. It is a perfect combination of flavours and texture: soft bun, juicy pork, the gentle salt and acid hit from the pickled cucumber, fragrant hoisin and the kick of heat from the Sriracha. You can imagine being perched at a bar, drink in hand, polishing off a plate of them.

Balls of potato arrive, cooked in beef fat, accompanied by the sweet muskiness of bottarga, and peppery watercress. The potato treads that textural line between soft and undercooked, and the dish is heightened with a falling snow of citrus zest. At this point in service, the chefs are gliding in unison, moving from station to station, and it is addictive viewing. The bowls that have been sitting at the station directly in front of us start being plated up with soft downy crab, miso emulsion and panko crumbs. The miso is smooth and creamy, with a gentle flavour that does not overpower the delicate crab, and the fried panko adds a much needed textural element. This was my favourite dish, simple but perfectly executed, and shows the restraint of the chefs when balancing flavours.

Zucchini is presented in various forms and preparations: raw paper-thin slices, chargrilled chunks, flower and stem; each perfectly prepared. It is served with earthy black garlic and soft unctuous egg yolk that retains texture rather than spilling across the plate. This is another dish that lives on its plays on texture and balancing the subtle zucchini with the strong black garlic. Following is mulloway, with chargrilled lettuce, kohlrabi shavings and young garlic emulsion. The mulloway is perfectly cooked, caramelised yet flaking, and its meaty texture ties well with the young garlic, the char from the lettuce,  and the subtle notes of smoked roe in the sauce.

You know there is some serious meat coming when presented with a chunky knife that could be used for hunting. The pork neck is full of delicious pork flavour and works perfectly with the soft sweet cabbage and the notes of oyster coming from the sauce. It is nice to see a hunk of meat served that is tender but has not lost its thick meaty nature. Too often we are given cuts of meat that have been slow-cooked and sous-vided within an inch of its life, and you lose that wonderful feel of cutting and biting through it.

The playful cheese course has cider jelly (on a previous visit it was a sweet piccalilli) showered in light shavings of Bruny Island’s unpasteurised C2 cheese topped with a crisp of rye bread. Dessert is shimmering coins of translucent pear along with native Australian muntries, which have a slightly floral, mildly bitter, apple-esque flavour, laced with glorious honey cream and nutty crumbs. It is a gentle and comforting way to end the meal, despite feeling like you could eat a bowl of the honey cream on its own, but the true finale is the pork fat caramel doughnut. A warm pillowy doughnut, drenched in sugar, and filled with a dark caramel caught reminiscing about bacon.

Most restaurants would not attempt, let alone pull off, ending a meal with a sweet-savoury punch, but it sums up Momofuku perfectly. Rockstars do as they please, invert the rules and constantly surprise. Momofuku has arrived.

Momofuku Seiōbo
The Star, 80 Pyrmont Street, Pyrmont, Sydney
http://momofuku.com/sydney/seiobo/

The perfect Sunday lunch with Union Dining

Union Dining, Richmond.
December 16, 2012

Sunday lunch is one of those traditions that should be preserved and cherished. They bring back memories of childhood and family; being with those you love and sharing a meal together. For those times that you want to enjoy a great meal with family and friends, but without labouring away in the kitchen, Union Dining is there to give you a lazy Sunday lunch (or any meal) without the stress.

Union Dining opened in 2011 under chef Nicky Riemer (Melbourne Wine Room, Trunk, Richmond Hill Cafe and Larder) and front-of-house Adam Cash (Cutler & Co, Ezard). The room is unpretentious with pale walls, warm wood, high ceilings and large arches, with a few provincial touches like the hessian sacking around the hanging lights. This style carries through to the uncomplicated provincial European food and the passionate and confident staff (whose descriptions of the specials are addictively enthusiastic). The wine list is generous, with a strong selection from Australia and across Europe, and the list, and staff, guide you well.

The food makes the most of seasonal produce, and is fresh, clean and vibrant. For Sunday lunch they serve a la carte or a ‘shared provincial experience’ for the whole table, and my suggestion is to go with the chef’s choice and let them take care of all the details; you won’t be disappointed. The shared meal begins with a selection of appetisers, then a main and side, followed by dessert. It is worth noting that despite it being a shared meal, they will look after anyone with food allergies and provide them with their own serve where needed (as always advance notice is the best bet).

Not to discount the main meals, but I adore the appetisers every time I visit. They’re the kind of simple yet delicious plates that you would happily eat all day, every day. Each of them a perfect journey of flavour and texture, where each component sings in harmony and becomes a celebration of the season. A salad of sweet prawn and fresh spring broad beans balances with the salty creaminess of ricotta and the crunch of crispy onions and seeds with a dusting of dukkah spice. Their panzanella has chunks of charred bread which slowly soak up the juices of the sweet tomatoes, with cucumber and parsley bringing a vibrant freshness, and the capers and buttermilk adding salty and acidic notes. Another dish has hunks of smoked ham hock, which is meltingly tender, juicy slices of sweet roasted apple, as well crunch and texture from roasted hazelnuts and black quinoa, lifted with herbacious parsley. The final appetiser on this visit was trimmed spears of al dente asparagus with gently oozing soft egg, sweetly acidic balsamic shallots and smooth goat’s curd.

The main dish moved us into the festive season with roast chicken stuffed with shiitake, confit garlic and caramelised onion, served with gently roasted whole cherries and a vinaigrette-influenced jus. The chicken is tender and juicy, with the stuffing bringing comforting earthy sweetness. On the side are crunchy roasted potatoes served with caramel and prunes; despite sounding overly sweet it balances well, especially with the gentle acidity of the cherries and jus.

Fitting with the season, and at the end of a generous meal, dessert is strawberries and vanilla ice cream. Beneath such a simple description lies a sublime dish. While they may lack that burst of juiciness that most strawberries give, the Yarra Valley alpine strawberries have an intensity of flavour that puts your standard strawberries to shame. Hard to describe, but delicious to eat, these berries are small but with a soft texture and a rich, smooth, decadent flavour. Accompanied by an unctuous passionfruit curd and vanilla ice cream, this is a perfect end to a wonderful meal.

I can’t recommend Union Dining enough as one of those restaurants that always delivers perfect service and food but with no attitude or fuss. This is about unpretentious food that delivers layers of flavour, texture and variety. Their shared Sunday lunch gives you the perfect chance to indulge in a comforting meal with family and friends, knowing that you will leave with fond memories and plans to return.

Union Dining
270 – 272 Swan Street, Richmond 3121
http://www.uniondining.com.au/

The Impeccable Pei Modern

Pei Modern, Melbourne CBD.
November 14, 2012

We can all breathe a sigh of relief that Melbourne can enjoy Mark Best’s food without needing to head North. Pei Modern is his first Southern venture and it delivers the top-notch service and food that makes his restaurant Marque in Sydney so special, but settling into a much more approachable groove. Where Marque aims for the fine-dining crowd with an adventurous degustation, Pei Modern delivers an all-day bistro-style experience. That is not to say that the food is any less spectacular, but that it’s more accessible and relaxed.

Nestled at the bottom of the Sofitel and named after I. M. Pei, the architect who designed Collins Place, Pei Modern has that Scandinavian aesthetic of pale crisp furnishings. The restaurant moves from a bar area with its own menu, through to the comfortably designed main room (despite my personal dislike of plastic chairs), with a generous outside terrace as well. The service team is led by Ainslie Lubbock, winner of this year’s Good Food Guide service excellence award, and is warm, with a strong attention to detail. The kitchen is run by head chef Matt Germanchis, and the menu features new takes on classic Marque dishes as well as exploring new territory with so-called ‘bistronomy’ dishes. Breakfast has its own menu, while lunch and dinner share most dishes, and while you can order a la carte, the seven course dinner menu for $90 (lunch is four courses for $50) is the best experience.

The food is technically perfect, without being overcomplicated, and lets the simplicity of the produce speak for itself, yet there’s often a twist or a more unusual ingredient that lends an edge to the dishes. The Almond Gazpacho with Blue Swimmer Crab has moved south to become a staple of the menu; this dish is rich and creamy without overpowering the crab, and red grapes add a sweet acidity throughout. Another Marque classic is dutch cream potatoes and luscious bone marrow sunk in a pool of decadent potato foam and dusted with mojama (dried, cured tuna) and coffee. This dish is sinfully delicious and begs to be savoured; perfect proof that a few perfect ingredients can deliver an overwhelming experience.

Dining with someone who tends to avoid offal, the lamb sweetbread dish made them an instant convert. Nuggets of crumbed and fried sweetbread were delicate and well-seasoned, and the simplicity of the tender carrot and sauce were a revelation of how delicious the humble carrot can be. One constant across the menu was the generousity of each plate, with our final savoury course offering lavish tender-pink slices of hanger steak with chargrilled and smoky bullhorn pepper and an aromatic harissa paste.

Smooth mango sorbet with vibrant ginger granita was a perfect combination of flavour; light and delicate with a refreshing zing from the ginger. It sounds very simplistic, which it is, but it was mouth-wateringly delicious. The second dessert didn’t feel as harmonious, with rich chocolate ganache and hazelnut off-set by a lemonade sorbet. While both parts of the dessert were good on their own, the lemonade sorbet tended to cleanse the palate too much, for me, washing away the luxurious chocolate.

Pei Modern delivers the polish and taste of Mark Best’s Marque, but makes the wise choice to make it more of an everyday experience, rather than just for special occasions. The excellent service and simple dishes with an edge are why it was named Best New Restaurant by the Good Food Guide. The highest praise you can give a restaurant is that they delivered such good food that it’s hard to pick a favourite dish, and Pei Modern made it impossible to decide. This is one of the best dining experiences I’ve had all year.

Pei Modern
Collins Place, 45 Collins St, Melbourne.
http://www.peimodern.com.au/

Soulful food with Rockwell & Sons

Rockwell and Sons, Collingwood.
November 21, 2012

Rockwell and Sons brings an interesting juxtaposition to the Smith Street strip, with the food balancing between comforting American soul food and dishes that lean towards fine dining. On the first visit it’ll be hard to get past the alluring meats in buns (let’s all agree to retire “dude food”), but the rest of the menu is worth exploring, especially as it’s designed to share with the whole table.

Chef and owner Casey Wall, from North Virginia, by way of some top restaurants in New York (Spotted Pig included) and Cutler & Co, brings an experience and passion of American classics to Melbourne, and it delivers on all fronts. The room goes for the sparse industrial feel with concrete floors, plain wood and open ceilings, which fits perfectly into Collingwood and the homely food. The service is led by Manu Potoi, from Wellington and ex-Attica, and brings a casual polish to the experience. Drinks have a strong beer focus, including some great local brews like the Mountain Goat Triple Hightail, which suits the food, but does feature a short, well-selected list of wines as well (and spirits too).

The highlight for me is the Wednesday night fried chicken, which is not to discredit the rest of the menu (which I’ll cover another time), but this offers something unique to Melbourne dining. This week’s review in The Age’s Epicure  details the lengthy 3-day process of delivering the perfect fried chicken, and perfection it is. This is the kind of fried chicken that you lie awake at night thinking about- crispy batter, that doesn’t ooze grease, which melts into tender, juicy meat. As well as offering a whole fried chicken, the $60 meal comes with all the Southern-style trimmings, which would feed three people easily, or four to five if you want to explore some of the other temptations on the menu as well.

Accompanying the chicken are the best biscuits (if you don’t know about biscuits, think lighter, fluffier scones and you’re almost there) you’ve ever eaten; soft and delicate inside with a flaky, buttery crust. Made with Myrtleford buttermilk (which I love, and is gracing menus Melbourne-wide) these biscuits are magnificent towers and beg to be torn into. The “mac and cheese” is rich and moreish without being overpowering, and the coleslaw is lively, with a light creaminess. On this occasion the other sides, which change week to week, were grilled asparagus with that sweet char, and pickled vegetables which brought the palate alive amongst the rich dishes.

We also had the “hush puppies” as well- crisp, yet fluffy, deep fried nuggets of cornmeal batter served with maple syrup butter. The hush puppies themselves did not blow me away, but with the maple syrup butter it had a captivating balance of salt and sugar.

After only being open a few months, Rockwell and Sons is hitting its stride, with fantastic word-of-mouth and great reviews, and it’s going to get busy- make sure you call up and book your Wednesday night fried chicken now.

Rockwell and Sons
288 Smith St, Collingwood, Victoria, 3066
http://www.rockwellandsons.com.au/

Baby Café and Pizzeria

Baby Café & Pizzeria, Richmond.
October 29, 2012

Baby is the new arrival from Chris Lucas, the man behind the ever popular Chin Chin in the CBD, and brings a new life to the site that was, until recently, Pearl. Baby aims to do for Italian food what Chin Chin did for Asian cuisine, create a fun, casual eatery which thrums with passionate energy. The formula still proves to be a winner with an element of familiarity between the two (neon, menu style, learning a new language in the toilet, eating around the open kitchen), but with enough individuality that they don’t come across as cloned twins.

Baby has its tongue firmly in cheek when it comes to its style and image, with lascivious lips, genitalia-like pink neon lights and a promo video that has spurred debate of sleazy vs sexy (see it here). If anyone takes offence then they’re missing the point. The design of the restaurant itself can only be described as modern rustic with pale wood, canvas on walls, and all manner of meat and cactus dangling around the kitchen; the bright neon adds bursts of colour. The kitchen is run by Executive Chef Domenic Pipicelli, who has previously worked at Becco and Mama Baba, aided by new Italian imports head chef Nicola Dusi and head pizza chef Daniele Colombo.

The service is friendly, informative (helping navigate the menu and Italian language) and enthusiastic, possibly a little too enthusiastic and attentive but I would take that any day over dreary and distant. The kitchen is quick, especially the pizzas, so there’s no going hungry here. The menu follows the traditional Italian style of antipasti, primi, secondi and dolci (desserts), but it’s more relaxed with ‘Salumi and Mozzarella’ and ‘Small Tastes’ leading into Pasta, Specialita (mains) with salads and side dishes, as well as a large selection of pizzas. There’s also the Banchetto set menu option, which if it’s anything like Chin Chin’s will be a generous adventure through the menu. The wine list showcases bottles from the different regions of Italy, with some local options dotted throughout, and fit with the reasonably priced menu.

We start with a selection of smaller dishes. Our ‘Accoppiati’ (selection of matched cheese and cured meat), was speck, asiago, zucchini with thyme, and grissini. A simple platter but one which shows off the quality of the produce being used. The rich speck with creamy and salty asiago cheese; the zucchini have that sweet chargrilled flavour but without becoming soggy. The ‘Arancini & Crocchette’ is a selection of three morsels: two risotto balls and one croquette. These are simple items but often hard to perfect; at Baby they were all delicious. One arancini and croquette were very cheesy (never a bad thing), with the second arancini having a bolognese filling. Our final antipasti was the ‘Peperoncino dolce e salsiccia’, which were a highlight for me. Gorgeously sweet chargilled peppers bursting with a sausage, rice and friarielli (rapini) filling, these were so good that I wish I hadn’t been sharing.

Next was the ‘Paccheri al porro’, large tubes of pasta, perfectly cooked, with mounds of sweet caramelised leek and reggiano cheese. They had me at caramelised leek with this dish, and it was a winner, though it did need a touch more salt (handily provided on the table, along with chili flakes if you want a kick). The ‘Polpette di carne’ was probably the best dish of the night for me (although the pizzas were very close), moist meatballs in a rich, but not overpowering, tomato sauce, served on a bed of soft cheesy polenta. While the meatballs were good, it was the polenta, so often done badly, that was hard to stop eating, going so far as to scrape the serving plate of every last mouthful.

It would have been wrong to not try the pizzas, so we went for the ‘Funghi’ and the “specialty” pan fried ‘Burrata’. The pizzas strike that harmonious balance of a crisp, almost-chargrilled crust with a pillowy chewiness inside. A pizza with mushrooms just begs for me to order it, and the ‘Funghi’ was one of the best I’ve tried (Ladro also delivers a fanastic version). An abundance of cheesy goodness with buffalo taleggio and fior di latte, sauteed wild mushrooms and thyme; it was nice to see a selection of real wild mushrooms not portobello (which doesn’t really class as a wild mushroom in my opinion). The ‘Burrata’ hails from Baby’s “specialty” pizzas, some pan fried and some grilled. This one was pan fried and had a crispier crust than the regular pizzas, but without being greasy like other pan pizzas. The burrata itself, a type of mozzarella which has much creamier interior, was like floating on a cloud of dairy bliss, creamy and slightly salty but with a lightness that’s perfect for spring and summer. The burrata worked perfectly with the sweet acidic cherry tomatoes, the bright herbaceous note of basil and a chef not afraid of using enough sea salt to really bring out the sweetness of the tomato.

It’s very rare that I feel too full to not even share a dessert, but on this occasion it was an insurmountable challenge. Yet I’m happy to know that there’s more virgin (fitting in with the pseudo-sexual theme) territory to explore on my next visit, along with trying to make a larger dent in the extensive menu (something it shares with Chin Chin, where you feel you’ll never try every dish).

Baby is certainly another winner like Chin Chin, bringing some energy back to Italian eateries. As well as bringing some additional vibrancy to Richmond, which has some classy places like Union Dining, but mostly just boring quick and easy options. Baby is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner, with the breakfast menu offering some modern Italian twists on classic dishes.

Baby Café & Pizzeria
631-633 Church St, Richmond, 3121
http://www.babypizza.com.au

Crabapple Kitchen, my new local favourite

Crabapple Kitchen, Hawthorn.
October 27, 2012

The Glenferrie Road strip in Hawthorn has always thrived with bakeries, fast food, and quick and easy eateries. However, apart from Tao Tao House serving some fantastic dim sum, I’ve found it lacking in offering a more polished experience. That is a thing of the past with the fairly recent arrival of Crabapple Kitchen, which has created an oasis of relaxation amidst the hustle of weekend families and weekday university students. It is led by New Zealand chef Greg Feck, who has an impressive history working with the likes of Jamie Oliver, Ben O’Donoghue, and Stephanie Alexander at Richmond Hill Café & Larder, but who more recently opened Sapore in St Kilda and the FoodandTravelCo cooking school with partner Kim Coronica.

The white picket fence on the pavement outside speaks volumes of the nostalgic comfort that Crabapple Kitchen embodies. You can order Campos coffee and takeaway treats through the front window, then the cafe opens onto a rustic-style kitchen and bar area, while the seated area flows through the long room to the working kitchen at the rear. The design is warm and inviting and recalls the charms of a country kitchen, with warm colours, wooden furniture and, on this visit, baby pumpkins dotted on tables (our pumpkin was called Ricardo).

So far I’ve only had chance to explore the breakfast menu but having read the lunch menu (begins at 11:30am), which features spiced duck meatballs, 12-hour Merino and slow-cooked pork, it won’t be long until I do. Of note is that they’re beginning to experiment with opening for dinner, starting Friday November 2.

Despite having no booking and going the busy Sunday morning after a rave review in the Herald Sun, we were seated at the bar area for a coffee and to peruse the menu while we had a short wait for a table. The service is casual and friendly, exactly what you want from your local eatery, but without lacking an attention to detail. Campos coffee is served, a brand that I don’t see often in Melbourne, but which I have frequently in Sydney when visiting my head office; as well as T2 tea and a range of fresh juices and smoothies.

The menu takes two approaches, one part is Greg’s interpretations of classic breakfast menu items, with the second featuring more unique global choices from their travels around the world. Each dish highlights great produce and local producers with Myrtleford butter/milk, Meredith Dairy feta and various high-quality meats appearing across the menu.

The Myrtleford buttermilk pancakes is set to be one of their signature dishes. The crunch of salted peanut praline offers a counterpart to the soft milky pancakes, littered with chunks of banana, and the creamy tang of whipped mascarpone balances with the sweet maple syrup.

Their take on ‘baked beans’ is a generous serve of cannellini beans, slow-cooked in tomato, garlic and herbs; so rich and warm that it’s hard not to smile when eating it. The melted taleggio and an, optional, poached egg ooze through the beans and makes the accompanying crunchy herb bruschetta perfect for dipping.

On the more adventurous global side, the Northern Indian-style eggs, inspired by Jalandhar City, is similarly comforting with a warming lentil and carrot curry that never overpowers with its subtle and aromatic use of spices. Two poached eggs beg to be burst open and let their golden yolks mingle into the curry, with a spiced yoghurt offering a, not entirely necessary, dash of acidity. The grilled wholemeal flatbread has a lovely charred flavour that adds to the dish when mopping the bowl of every drop. This was easily my favourite dish.

I’m not one for having seafood at breakfast time, but with someone else at the table ordering it, I was able to try the Swedish inspired smoked ocean trout. The trout was gorgeously tender, served on grilled bread (gluten-free sourdough on this occasion) with delicately arranged shallots, cornichons, caperberries, horseradish creme fraiche and seaweed caviar on top. While not my personal choice, this dish showed the artistic hand behind the food, with beautiful plating that you don’t often find at breakfast.

Crabapple Kitchen has deservedly become my new favourite local restaurant/cafe, and that’s without trying the well-received lunch menu. Even if you don’t have the good fortune of living around the corner, this is definitely worth travelling for, and being able to book online (see their website) is an additional blessing.

Crabapple Kitchen
659 Glenferrie Rd, Hawthorn, 3122
http://www.crabapplekitchen.com.au

The Sharing House and West Winds Gin

The Sharing House, South Wharf.
October 24, 2012

The Sharing House held an event, in collaboration with West Winds Gin, to celebrate head chef Mark Briggs’ Young Chef of the Year win at The Age 2013 awards. I was lucky enough to win tickets to the event and I’m so glad I did, as this was the best introduction possible to The Sharing House.

The Sharing House opened earlier in the year on South Wharf, near the Hilton and DFO, overlooking the Yarra. South Wharf isn’t an area of Melbourne that I get to very much and it’s still finding its feet, but the allure of warmer weather will bring people out of hibernation to lounge outside on the promenade with a cold drink and great food.

The restaurant channels a casual industrial vibe, with high exposed ceilings and perfectly fits the style of the restored cargo sheds where the restaurant is situated. A simple white colour scheme is brought to life by bright primary colours, with lego-style decoration around the bar and kitchen. Huge open windows are designed for warm nights and being able to make the most of being beside the river.

The evening was a riot, a beautiful combination of perfectly executed and balanced food, a short hop around Europe with the matched wines and a blast of energy from West Winds Gin. West Winds Gin produce two award-winning gins in Australia using water from Margaret River. Sabre is a more traditional British-style gin with that classic citrus note and the addition of wattle seed to add a smoothness. Cutlass is a contemporary gin with bush tomato and more coriander seed to make a more savoury, aromatic spirit. The Cutlass was definitely my favourite, which was lucky as each table was given a bottle with a variety of mixers (tomato, capsicum, snow pea and celery) to make our unique twists on the classic G&T.  Not only was the gin amazing but the two guys from West Winds Gin brought such passion and enthusiasm that added so much to the whole evening.

We were given a vibrant citrus-based gin cocktail on arrival and a chance to explore the surroundings while enjoying canapes (crab and avocado cones, carrot marshmellow, cheese croquettes- which were amazing!). The first course was Chatham Island blue cod, cured in West Winds gin, served with textures of melon. The blue cod had a lovely texture, not completely melt-in-your-mouth like many fish, but it had substance and depth to it which added so much to the dish.

This was followed by a terrine of partridge, which had a balance of smoother textured meat with generous pieces of partridge to deliver a play on textures. The merlot vinegar was reduced to a a glorious stickiness with an acidity that married with the rich terrine.

The main event was a slow-cooked wagyu short rib, flaking with a gentle nudge of the knife and with a rich buttery flavour, complimented by the earthy truffle jus, and the braised celery adding that clean note through the dish.

A gin and tonic sorbet (as if it could have been anything else!) led into the dessert, a Violet and Honeycomb crumble. A rope of rich dark chocolate ganache, chunks of crispy honeycomb, with a subtle vanilla cream and studded with various textures of chocolate. It was a dish that would please those die-hard chocoholics, but also with a lightness of touch that didn’t overpower the meal.

It was a great night out, and the generosity of The Sharing House and West Winds Gin was fantastic. Mark Briggs makes the most of each ingredient and executes the dishes perfectly. There may have been a bit of a sore head in the morning, but it was more than worth it to find out that tomato does indeed go well with a Gin and Tonic!

The Sharing House
35 South Wharf Promenade, South Wharf, Melbourne
http://www.thesharinghouse.com.au/

West Winds Gin
http://thewestwindsgin.com/home/

Birthday week

So I’ve just finished celebrating a milestone birthday with a week of celebrations with my family of friends. It’s left me rather drained but brimming with the generosity of the people in my life.

It began with a weekend away with my partner at the Lake House in Daylesford. Having grown up in the Yorkshire Dales I always love to enjoy some peace and quiet away from the city. The waterfront suites have an amazing view of the lake and all manor of waterfowl, which is complimented by the warmth of the staff and the fantastic food. Our two night package included the degustation (with matched wines) on the first night and a three course a la carte dinner on the second night. One thing they do very well at the Lake House is to make every guest feel uniquely special, a credit to their fine staff. Two standout dishes to me were the roast pork and morcilla, and the chicken and mushrooms; both were a celebration of the produce, showing that you don’t need to complicate dishes when the ingredients are this good.

After another wonderful breakfast at the Lake House on Sunday morning, we had a leisurely drive back to Melbourne. That night was a birthday dinner with friends at Chin Chin, the perfect venue for a rather rowdy table. I’ve been to Chin Chin several times and always leave impressed (and staggeringly full!), but this time they blew me away. The generosity of the food was overwhelming with dish after dish of perfectly balanced food. The green papaya and ‘Crying Tiger’ salads treaded the tightrope of sweet, sour, salty and heat with precision; the beef short rib was meltingly tender and the best dish of the night; and the coconut sago wiped out any repressed memories of bland sago paste from my childhood. Our waiter for the night should be commended for remaining friendly and insightful amidst the frantic action of the dining room.

Monday, my birthday itself, was a chance to drop it down a gear, with a lovely brunch at Crabapple Kitchen in Hawthorn. A newcomer to my local neighbourhood strip, and a welcome one at that. The Indian-style eggs, floating in a subtly spiced lentil curry became even better with each spoonful, and the Myrtleford buttermilk pancakes with salted peanut praline and mascarpone were sinfully delicious. I’m looking forward to exploring the rest of the breakfast and lunch menu at my new favourite local.

Wednesday brought around the opening night (to the public at least) of Brooks. I won’t go on about Brooks, as I’ve written about the evening in detail here, but it was wonderful to see Nic Poelaert’s new adventures after Embrasse. The food, service, wine and company were fantastic.

Bringing the week to a close was an opportunity to welcome old and new friends alike into our home and make them feel welcome. It started off with an early (for a Saturday) visit to Prahran market, for an abundance of antipasti. As nice as it is to cook and share that with those close to you, after a certain number of guests, there’s a definite need to keep it simple. Cheddars, brie, chèvre, feta and ‘roaring forties’ blue, ribbons of prosciutto, mounds of salami, various bowls of marinated and preserved produce, along with a never-ending supply of bread (with the outstanding Myrtleford butter) were scattered throughout the house and garden.

The highlight to the evening was the cake from Burch and Purchese, my go-to for celebration cakes (to be honest, it’s my go-to whenever cake is needed!). This time we went for a large version of their Chocolate, Salted Caramel and Mandarin, with a second smaller cake, the Chocolate and Explosive Raspberry cake (just so we didn’t run out).  They decorated both cakes so that they visually worked together, and it provided a centrepiece with ‘wow’ factor. There’s nothing better after a few drinks than a wickedly decadent slice of cake.

So that’s it for another year and another decade, and now it’s time to recover!

Brooks of Melbourne

Brooks, Melbourne CBD
October 17, 2012

Brooks is the new restaurant and bar from Gerald’s Bar owners Gerald Diffey and Mario Di Ienno, in collaboration with chef Nic Poelaert. Nic has been serving Modern French dishes at his Carlton restaurant Embrasse for the past three years, but with Embrasse closing its doors last weekend, Nic and the kitchen team have moved to new adventures at Brooks.

The design brings a lightness to the subterranean dining space, while the bar area (and private dining room) goes for warm and inviting darker tones. A smaller dining room gazes into the open kitchen, with a larger space off to the side. The service is efficient without being intrusive and the first dishes arrive quickly, with the perfect pacing continuing throughout the meal. The wine list, by former Circa sommelier Matt Brooke, provides a strong range of Australian, and international, wines by the glass and bottle.

The menu is split into two sections: the first offers dishes that will likely feature on the menu all year round and takes more of a share approach with various ‘platters’ and dishes for two; the second are entrée-sized seasonal dishes served à la carte or a five-course chef’s selection. There are some nostalgic call-backs to Embrasse with the ‘meli melo’ and ‘Forest Floor’ both appearing. Nic’s food always celebrates seasonality, with a simplicity that lets the quality of the produce speak for itself, and the dishes at Brooks are no different. We decide to explore the sharing area of the menu, leaving the seasonal degustation until our next visit, although we do sample the two desserts from the seasonal offerings.

A luxurious parfait ensconced in a delicate shell of rye bread, with a glistening pearl of blackcurrant jam on top, beg to be savoured with a glass of wine (on this occasion a Pinot Noir from Central Otago). It’s not hard to see that they’re going to become a firm fixture on the menu, the perfect bar snack to accompany an after-work drink. We also choose the charcuterie selection with paper-thin ribbons of glorious Warialda bresaola, a delicately spiced chorizo, and hearty slices of saucisson.

Moving to heartier fare we decide to share the roasted Glenloth chicken for two, with another Embrasse favourite on the side, the aligot now going by the more descriptive ‘cheesy mash’. The oven-roasted chicken breasts are executed perfectly, being moist and tender, with well-seasoned crispy skin. Oddly the confit chicken legs weren’t as luscious as the breast, although the meat did still fall away from the bone. Seasonal zucchini, or should that be courgette, and green beans are served tender but still retain that al dente bite and vibrant green of spring. The cheesy mash is as much of a highlight here as it was at Embrasse, and still requires skill to coax the oozing, stretchy mash onto the plate. Served with jus gras and mustard on the side, this was an elegant take on the roast, wonderful on a chilly Melbourne spring day.

If the whole menu can be considered concise, then the dessert selection is very to-the-point, with just two options. However, between two people, two options worked perfectly as there was no indecision about ordering both. The take on lemon meringue offers a light and vibrant end to the meal, but does lack a little ‘wow’ factor. However the ‘Forest Floor’ continues to impress, a mushroom made of a crunchy meringue stalk and a decadent chocolate and hazelnut parfait cap, and the granita lending a bitter herbaceous note that offsets the rich chocolate elements.

Brooks is definitely going to be one of those CBD hotspots, offering casual fine dining with perfectly executed crowd favourites and seasonal dishes that sing with Nic Poelaert’s elegant simplicity.

Brooks
115-117 Collins st (basement), Melbourne.
http://brooksofmelbourne.com/

Weekend in Sydney: Billy Kwong

September 14, 2012 Billy Kwong, Surry Hills, Sydney.

I have to admit that one of my favourite places to eat in Sydney is Kylie Kwong’s Surry Hills restaurant, Billy Kwong.

It’s a small room, tables are quite tightly packed in (no wild gesticulations here), and most of the diners sit on stools. After that description you might feel turned off, but at Billy Kwong the hustle of the dining room actually makes the whole experience better. Like you’re tucked away in a  neighbourhood eating house in the backstreets of Shanghai or Hong Kong. Except this is in the middle of Surry Hills, and the room is decorated with stylish lacquered wooden walls (actually cupboards).

The place is always busy when I go, but it’s one of those places where you pop your name on the waiting list, go have a few drinks down the road, and your table will be ready before you know it. The turnover here is quick; you’ll be full before you know it and on to your next destination. The staff are always friendly, welcoming, and efficient. Top of the list, is that the food is fresh and tasty, and designed to share.

Over the past few visits I’ve noticed that the food has begun to include more native Australian ingredients such as saltbush leaves, warrigal greens and quandong. These native foods bring new life to Kylie’s dishes, which sing of her Chinese-Australian heritage. The stir-fried Old Man Salt Bush Leaves with Young Ginger were simple, yet delicious and moreish (especially as a counterpart to the richness of the pork belly main).

(I should say that the photos below, in no way to justice to the food. That’s the downside of a softly lit dining room, and I’m not one to whip out a camera and flash to disrupt everyone’s meal.)

Crispy Organic Salt Bush & Tatsoi Cakes with Homemade Chilli Sauce

A perfect change from the ordinary spring rolls that you often find littering menus. These were crispy and light, with the slightly nutty tatsoi leaves wrapped up inside. On the side was a wonderful  housemade chilli sauce, which had a subtle heat to it, but a well-developed, almost slightly fermented flavour coming through. After noticing how fast the chilli sauce disappeared, our waiter kept us well supplied all night.

Wok-Fried Rice Noodle Rolls with Braised Biodynamic Beef & Black Beans

These were possibly my favourite dish of the night (and my last visit also). Normally you see rice noodle rolls steamed, with that gelatinous texture that you love or hate, but here they’re fried to give a crisp texture on the outside, that melts into the comforting softness of slow-braised brisket inside. The spring onions and micro-herbs give an element of sweetness and freshness to cut through the beef. Despite being so full at the end of the meal, I was so close to ordering another serve.

Sung Choi Bao of Certified Free-Range Pork, Ginger & Mushrooms

Sung choi bao is one of those classic dishes that can never go out of style, because they’re far too enjoyable. A brimming bowl of pork, ginger and mushrooms, accompanied with a stack of lettuce leaves and a selection of herbs like mint and coriander. It’s DIY style, which is far better than them coming out with the lettuce wilting under the heat of the filling, and it’s best to embrace the reality that there’s no way to eat them without getting messy. There’s something so perfect about that crisp, refreshing lettuce (this is what iceberg lettuce does best) that yields to the juicy, dripping, gingery pork inside, with a zap of herbaceous freshness.

Red-Braised, Caramelised Black Berkshire Pork Belly with Malfroy’s Organic Yellow Box Honeycomb, Organic Fish Sauce, Organic Meyer Lemon & Sichuan Pepper

The biggest shame is that the photo of this dish does absolutely nothing to convey how great this was.
The pork belly was crispy and caramelised on the outside, yet moist on the inside, that great balance between rendering the fat out but retaining enough to give it an amazing flavour. Served with a scoop of gorgeous honeycomb on top to stir through the pork, and lemon to squeeze on for acidity, this was essentially an elevated sweet and sour pork. To balance it out, we had Old Man Salt Bush Leaves with Young Ginger on the side, the beautiful tender leaves with generous slices of zingy ginger.

Billy Kwong
355 Crown Street, Surry Hills, NSW 2010
http://www.kyliekwong.org/BillyKwongs.aspx